Milia: What Are Those Annoying White Bumps and How Do You Get Rid of Them?
They are not whiteheads. They are not blackheads. They are tiny, hard, pearly-white bumps that often appear around the eyes, cheeks, and nose. They are milia, and they can be incredibly stubborn and frustrating.
While they are completely harmless, they can affect the smooth texture of your skin. The good news is, you are not stuck with them forever. Understanding what they are is the first step to getting rid of them—and preventing them from coming back.
What Exactly Are Milia?
Milia are small cysts that form when keratin—a protein that makes up our skin, hair, and nails—becomes trapped beneath the surface of the skin. Unlike a pimple, which is a pore clogged with oil and bacteria and is connected to the surface, a milium (the singular of milia) has no opening. It's a tiny, self-contained pocket of protein.
This is why you should never, ever try to squeeze or pop a milium. It's not a pimple. There's nowhere for the contents to go, and trying to force it will only lead to inflammation, scarring, and potential infection.
What Causes Milia?
Milia can occur for a few reasons:
- Inefficient Exfoliation: The most common cause in adults. When your skin doesn't naturally slough off its dead cells efficiently, the keratin can get trapped.
- Using Heavy, Occlusive Creams: Rich, heavy creams, especially around the delicate eye area, can sometimes be too occlusive, trapping keratin. This is a common reason people get milia under their eyes.
- Sun Damage: Long-term sun exposure can make the skin thicker and leathery, which can make it harder for dead cells to be shed properly.
- Skin Trauma: Sometimes, milia can form as the skin heals from a burn, a rash, or a cosmetic procedure.
How to Get Rid of Milia
Patience and the right ingredients are key.
- Introduce a Chemical Exfoliant: This is the most effective at-home treatment. A product containing an AHA like glycolic acid or a BHA like salicylic acid will help to dissolve the "glue" holding the dead skin cells together, gradually revealing the trapped keratin and allowing it to be shed. Using this as part of a Skin Cycling: The 'Less is More' Trend That Actually Works routine is a great way to stay consistent without causing irritation.
- Add a Retinoid to Your Routine: Retinoids, like the ones we discuss in Retinol vs. Tretinoin: What's the Difference and Which One is Right for You?, are brilliant for preventing milia. They work by accelerating cell turnover, which keeps the skin's surface smooth and makes it much harder for keratin to get trapped in the first place.
- Re-evaluate Your Eye Cream: If you are getting milia specifically around your eyes, your eye cream might be too rich. Look for a lighter, gel-based formula. As we explore in Do You Really Need a Separate Eye Cream? An Honest Investigation, sometimes less is more.
- Professional Extraction: For stubborn milia that don't respond to at-home treatment after a few months, the quickest and safest way to remove them is to see a dermatologist or a licensed esthetician. They can use a tiny, sterile lancet to make a minuscule incision and extract the keratin pearl. It's a quick, precise, and safe procedure when done by a professional.
Dealing with milia is a long game, not a quick fix. By incorporating gentle, consistent exfoliation and a cell-turnover-boosting retinoid into your routine, you can not only treat the milia you have but also create an environment where they are far less likely to form in the future.
